"As anyone who appreciates Celtic music already knows, in Ireland's land, you can hear the music, and in its music, you can see the land. My mind danced to the harps, strings and pipes of one of the most beautifully rolling, cloud topped, mountain ranges that I had ever seen. Their beauty was only enhanced by the violent manner in which they dropped off into the sea, marked by massive and dramatic cliffs. Such a sight takes away any wonder as to why Celtic folklore is so woven with the mystic."
Into the Mystic, Ireland's North and West
It is understandable to be full of excitement and anticipation at the prospect of a golfing trip to Ireland with your buddies. Our objective was simple enough, four friends meandering our way through the north and west of Ireland, hoping to discover the pure essence of links golf while enjoying the warmth and hospitality that makes Ireland so unique.
Our first stop was Portstewart (6,895 yards, par 72, www.PortstewartGC.co.uk), near Bushmills in Northern Ireland. Due to its close proximity to Royal Portrush, Portstewart does not get the attention it deserves. Rugged and beautiful, Portstewart was a tough, yet fair test of links golf that was a fully enjoyable start to our trip.
Portstewart Golf Club
We stayed at the Bushmills Inn (www.BushmillsInn.com), a warm and comfortable hotel housed in a building that dated back to the 1600's. The glowing peat and coal fire that greets guests in the lobby helps to establish a tone of relaxation and rejuvenation. A single malt whiskey in their period authentic "gas pub" (it is actually still lit by gas lamps), is a must stop.
Bushmills Inn
While in the area, we visited the Bushmills Distillery. They were granted a "License to Distill" in 1608 and from the samples they provided, they have apparently invested their time wisely. From there, we visited the Giant's Causeway, a natural anomaly of countless six-sided rocks piled atop one another. Geologists inform us that the rocks were formed by volcanic activity some sixty-million years ago, and Irish myth will claim their origins to the giant Finn McCool. One thing that is certain is that the Giant's Causeway proves that there are forces in this world that are well beyond us. Finally, we visited the Dunluce Castle ruins. The castle dates back as far as the Norman era and its remains and the story of it's history were fascinating.
Giant's Causeway
That afternoon we played the Royal Portrush Dunluce Links (6,845 yards, par 72, www.RoyalPortrushGolfClub.com). Royal Portrush's lineage is very impressive. Founded in 1888 and consistently ranked among the Top 10 courses in the world, it is the only Irish course to have hosted the Open Championship (1951, won by Max Faulkner) and it is hosting of the Senior British Championship again in 2011, speaking to its lasting staying power on the world golf stage. The 14th Hole speaks to its brilliance. The hole is a 211 yard, par 3, known as Calamity's Corner. One must carry their ball the entire way to the green as the right side of the hole is marked by a mountainous cavern and there is a devious pot bunker protecting the left side of the green.
Royal Portrush Dunluce Links
Later, we checked into Ballyliffen Lodge (www.BallyliffenLodge.com). As endearing as our former hotel was for its charm, the Ballyliffen Lodge was distinguished for it beauty and class. WiFi, spa, gym, formal dining room and an active pub were all a part of the magic.
The next morning, the full light of day greeted us with the beauty that surrounded us. I was struck by the beauty of the Blue Stack mountains that embrace the region like outstretched arms. As anyone who appreciates Celtic music already knows, in Ireland's land, you can hear the music, and in its music, you can see the land. My mind danced to the harps, strings and pipes of one of the most beautifully rolling, cloud topped, mountain ranges that I had ever seen. Their beauty was only enhanced by the violent manner in which they dropped off into the sea, marked by massive and dramatic cliffs. Such a sight takes away any wonder as to why Celtic folklore is so woven with the mystic.
We set off to play the Ballyliffin Glashedy Course (7,217 yards, par 72, www.BallyliffinGolfClub.com) designed by Pat Ruddy. The course meanders through mountainous dunes and then plummets back down into deep canyons. The variety was fascinating and while the deep rough was unforgiving for a well off-line shot, the fairways were wide and the greens were receptive when some forethought was employed as to how to attack the pin. Each hole possessed a singular character and one left the course with an overall impression that the Ballyliffin Glashedy Course was a very fun round of links golf.
Ballyliffin
The Portsalon Golf Club (6,748 yards, par 72, www.PortsalonGolfClub.ie) was our next destination. At first glance, Portsalon strikes you are typically Irish, humble and unassuming, yet all one has to play is the first hole and attempt to negotiate an approach shot close to the pin to realize that subtly sometimes packs a formidable punch. Portsalon is a hidden gem and epitomized our experiences in that regard throughout our journey. The fairways are distinguished by wild mounds, slopes and valleys. Portsalon's natural links provided us for a joyous experience (we liked it so much, we played the course twice) that reiterated the value of intellect over brawn.
Portsalon Golf Club
Our next stop was the Rosapenna Hotel and Golf Course (7,005 yards, par 71, www.Rosapenna.ie). More than a simple marriage between a hotel and a golf course, this was a true luxury resort. We arrived early enough to play the first ten holes of their Old Tom Morris Course (Old Tom designed the first ten holes). Perhaps Old Tom was a friendly man, but old photographs seem to make him look craggy and irascible. I've played a number of courses he designed and each seemed to embody his image. Irregular and unpredictable, the Old Tom Morris course was well worth the effort to play it as it provided for the exact experience you want on a links course.
The Rosapenna Hotel was lovely. The rooms were comfortable, the hotel bar was welcoming and the dining room was dignified and featured a massive series of picture windows overlooking the beach.
Rosapenna Golf Links
Rosapenna Golf Links lived up to its advance reputation. This Pat Ruddy designed course is a full-bore test of golf. Thankfully, we were there on a day when the winds were calm, and even though, the course placed a premium upon precise shot making. What's more, the green complexes were shaped such that a careless approach, chip or putt would be granted no quarter, rather, instantly consumed by a deep rough shrouded swale, or worse yet, an unforgiving pot bunker. Rosapenna is a thinking-man's golf course.
From there, we played the Narin & Portnoo Golf Club (6,856 yards, par 73, www.NarinPortnooGolfClub.ie). Any golfing trip to Ireland is a journey of discovery, both of a personal kind and of some of the greatest links courses in the world. Narin & Portnoo was to me like Burningbush was to Michael Murphy, in his book, Golf in the Kingdom. Tucked away in Ireland's hidden coast, Narin & Portnoo was rustic, wild and yet so very authentic. Narin & Portnoo called on every type of shot (and every club), always providing for multiple options of how to approach the task at hand. Anyone that loves links golf will love this course, but to he who possesses a great imagination, this course could be their masterpiece. Narin & Portnoo seemed as if it was from another golfing universe, worlds away from beverage carts and monolithic clubhouses. If one is looking to discover the true essence of links golf, then they simply have to play Narin & Portnoo, if not only for all that it is, but for all that it is not.
Narin & Portnoo Golf Club
That night we stayed at the Radisson SAS Sligo Hotel (www.Sligo.RadissonSAS.com). I was amazed at the level of comfort, including full spa and leisure facilities and business sophistication. We enjoyed one of our most delicious meals in their modern, European style restaurant and a Guinness night-cap (to aid in digestion, of course) in the hotel's busy pub.
If it is possible to fall in love anew every day, then I was fully swooned by the County Sligo Golf Course (6,609 yards, par 71, www.CountySligoGolfClub.ie). It is an amazing golf course. The first thing one is struck by is the amazing views in every direction. Even surrounded by this beauty, the golf course quickly grabs your attention. While the course dates to 1894, it was redesigned in the late 1920's by Harry S. Colt, the same man who designed Sunnydale, Wenthworth and Pine Valley. Colt crafted a links that embodied both artistry and pure pragmatism. The course is laid out there before you in a what-you-see-is-what-you-get sort of way. Ingeniously utilizing the natural slope and contours of the land, Colt only took from this property what Mother Nature decided to give him, and she must have been in a generous mood. The result is a sense of fairness, such that your fate is in your hands, augmented by fabulous variety. Co. Sligo deserves to be placed in the company of Ireland's finest links courses.
Co. Sligo Golf Club
Wanting to stay near the airport, we spent our last night in the Dromoland Castle (www.Dromoland.ie). As the name implies, this former manor home of the O'Brien's is most impressive, indeed. Built on land the O'Brien clan had occupied for over 1,000 years, the Queen Anne period architecture was amazing and second only to the service and luxuries inherent in this full amenity hotel. It was a perfect ending to a perfect trip and given how close it was to the Shannon airport, we arrived fully refreshed and ready to jump back in the "real world" of deadlines and responsibilities that awaited our return.
Dromoland Castle
Ireland's north and west are not always the first place people think of when it comes to an Irish golf holiday, but if one's decision is based upon the criteria of reasonable prices, world-class links courses, luxury accommodations and good, old-fashioned Irish hospitality, then Ireland's north and west cannot be matched. If you would like help with your trip to Ireland's north and west, drop me an email at FairwaysofLife@cox.net.